Sunday, August 29, 2010

Muselet of the Month (August 2010)



Bollinger
Owners: Bollinger SA
Established: 1829
Located: Ay, Champagne, France
Sales: 1.2 million bottles
Exports: Over 75%
Delux Cuvees: RD and Vieilles Vignes
Possibly the most famous of the great grande marques of Champagne. Founded by Joseph Bollinger and Paul Renaudin in 1829. Made famous by the charismatic widow, Lily Bollinger who took over the business when her husband died in 1941 and remained in charge till 1971. She championed the traditional method of Champagne making and thus the house style is distinctly influenced by barrel fermentation and ageing. In terms of taste, it means that Bollinger's Champagnes have big sweeping aromas and mouth storming flavours.

Sunday, August 22, 2010

How to capture the magical Champagne bubble


Wine fanatics often collect labels from bottles they have consumed, in contrast, Champagne afficionados take this past-time up a few notches - they collect muselets.



The earliest Champagne closure was primitive and totally ineffective. Bottles were sealed with pieces of wood and oil soaked cloth which were then dipped in wax. This method proved a failure at suppressing the almost 6 atmospheres of pressure in the average bottle and the result was frequently exploding stoppers and leaking resulting in flat wines. This was counteracted by the use of cork in the late 17th century. In order to secure the corks they were tied down with hempden string. This was a manual technique and it became very difficult to keep pace the ever increasing production demand.




In 1844 Adolphe Jacqueson invented the wire and hood or muselet (museler in french means muzzle) This consisted of a prefabricated metal plaque and a wire cage. Various shapes and numbers of 'legs' around the neck were tried before the the four-legged modern muselet was settled on. In 1906 Pol Roger took the functional muselet to the next level when it was customized and branded by use of lithography. Branding and packaging is one of the successes of Champagne and the detail and design on muselets is spectacular. Not surprising that it has lead to the existence of the Placomusophile or simply the muselet collector. Considering that there are well over 5000 champagne producers alone excluding all the other forms of sparkling wine producers from Cava to Cap Classique it should be more than a life times endeavour. I suspect the best part of the quest is actually drinking the bubbly.




I find this kind of trivia not only fascinating but vital. Learning the name of an object, understanding and knowing its history and putting it in context all gives it meaning and importance. A humble throwaway object acquires relevance and existence in our consciousness.


Sunday, August 15, 2010

Bubbly is good for your brain



When raising a glass of Cap Classique and toasting 'Cheers' the general attitude is that this is a way of figuratively praising one's health. Recent research has now proven that moderate consumption of Bubbly genuinely protects the brain. A joint study by the universities of Reading and Cagliari found that phenolic compounds in sparkling wine such as tyrosol and caffeic acid help protect the brain against injuries incurred during a stroke and other ailments such as Alzheimer's and Parkinson's disease. (http://www.articlealley.com/ Health benefits of Champagne)


On a less scientific level sparkling wine is commonly associated with celebration and the general sense of euphoria imparted is great at raising the spirits and encouraging a sense of well being.


Sparkling wine is the natural choice for the modern health conscious life style. Low in alcohol (average of 11.5%) and very low in SO2 (in order to ensure secondary fermentation its less than 50ppm) it is not surprising that Cap Classique is currently the only wine sector with significant growth in South Africa. Now I know why it's socially acceptable to drink Bubbly first thing in the morning with breakfast - I always thought it was to make the orange juice taste better.... Cheers.

Tuesday, August 10, 2010

The Magus - 'The Thinking Man's Wine'


It's that time of the year again.... the build up to the CWG Auction. This coming Thursday (at the CTICC) I will be presenting the first public tasting of The Magus (under the Steenberg brand) The Magus is what I would like to refer to as the 'thinking man's' Sauvignon Blanc. It is cold fermented in old french oak (in order not to extract excessive wood characters) and has 15% Semillon blended in to fatten the wine and add an extra dimension. Sauvignon Blanc is often described as simple hence I have consciously focused on adding as much complexity to The Magus as possible without domineering the subtle mineral traits of cool climate sauvignon.


I have yet to enter a Silverthorn Bubbly into the CWG auction for the simple reason that up to now our production has been too small. We are slowly growing our production and I am eagerly waiting for the opportunity to one day present a very special Silverthorn wine. Watch this space as I have already started working on an awesome blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir which will spend a minimum of 36 months on the lees. Started on this project in 2009 so we are all just going to have to be very patient. Great Bubbly needs time!
On Silverthorn Farm the first signs of spring are everywhere. The almond tress are in full blossom and the succulents are boasting psychedelic neon colours - bud burst in the vines should be a week earlier this year - cant wait for the 2011 vintage!

Tuesday, August 3, 2010

The perfect soil

The perfect Cap Classic soil - shale with layers of limestone - resulting wines have crisp acidity and beautiful minerality - this is the secret to both The Green Man and Genie. Champagne also owes its unique characters to limestone.